My Cochin remembrances

Kochi had a distinct past, has a marvellous present and glorious future. We have been Cochinites, from the early part of the 20th century, and three generations comprising of my grandfather, grandmother, my father, and myself, my brother and sisters formed a part of this chain, having been in Cochin for more than a century.

We were part of the mainland Kochi, which had the fortune to see a typical pan-Indian nature by the substantial presence of ethnic cosmopolitan culture, please do not mistake it with cosmopolitan Club at Anavathil where India’s greatest singer Mohammed Rafi, came and conducted a ‘ganamela’ to the enthrallment of the entire Cochinites. Gandhiji had visited this place; Smt Indira Gandhi visited the place atleast two times; Dr B Radhakrishna Rao, Governor, had come here a number of times. The Pais of Manipal, who gave life to Manipal as a centre of learning, and they are the pioneers in the privatization of Education, often visited Cochin. Sankaracharya of Singeri and Sankaracharya of Kanchipuram, used to visit this beautiful place. The plastered mouth Jain sanyasis and sanyasinis used to come; the Godwa Saraswat Mathawacharya Swamijis also visited the Thirumala Devaswom temple atleast twice in a year, there were regular visits by different pontiffs of Christiana and Islam faith. But the people of Cochin always welcomed them with warmth and made them feel Cochin was their world. Cochinites included Yesudas, Antony, Rani Chandra, and many drama artistes. V R Krishna Iyer used to visit the Star talkies along with his wife Smt Janaki Krishna Iyer to see the latest English movies screened there.

If you travel the lanes and bylanes of Cochin, you would accost Muslims, Christians, Menons, Nairs, Tamil Brahmins, Tulu Brahmins, Godwa Saraswaths, Mdhavachars, Bengalis, Maharashtrians, Buddhists, Jains, Gujaratis, Marwaris, Biharis, Bengalis, Andhraites, Kanareese, Punjabis, Parsis, people from UP, Anglo Indians, and the like. Cochin is a mini India. There was a prosperous Jewish community settlement here (Jew Town) you can also see that these people not only come here, they bring their family, their tradition and culture. The Gujarathis play the ‘garba’ dance watched by their Malayalee neighbours. Holi and Diwali are celebrated with gaiety, while Onam and Vishu are celebrated by people of all faiths and religions. Christmas, Easter, Eid ul-Fitr, Milad-e-sherif is celebrated with devotion by the communities. Cochin carnival is conducted at Fort Cochin annually in the last week of December of every year. The thalapalli at Pazhayannur Bhagavati temple and the ten-day festivities at the Thirumala Devaswom Temple at Cherali draw huge crowds from Cochin’s multi ethnic composition. . Festivals and festivities form a part of the routine of a Malayalee. The children look forward to these festivals with eager anxiety.

If you are an avid eater, you can taste the multi dimensional food that is served on plantain leaves with two curries, porridge, payasam, avizal, thoran, pachadi, pappad, banana chips, three types of pickles, sambar, rasam and curd, which would be sumptuous and part of the cuisine during festivals, marriages and other celebrations. There will be abundance of Coconut and spices, coconut oil used extensively in the fried preparations, as Kerala is the land of ‘Kera’ or ‘land of Coconut’. I had the opportunity to serve this industry as Export Consultant to the Coconut Development Board, which was set up exclusively to develop the Coconut industry. When it was declared as an Export Promotion Council, my services were sought, and I assisted them. I have authored the ‘Coconut Export Manual’ which is a composition directed at export formalities, procedures and documentation. Chinese and North Indian cuisines are also available. Fast Food Culture has taken off in a big way. Another unique wayside hotel in moving carts known as ‘thattukada’ also sells preparations for the wayside crowd. The parippuwada and tea are very famous, and a familiar eatable of the Kerala folk. In the early days, it is used to be eating parrippuwada, then drink tea and smoke a beedi, a trait of the Communist.

A unique feature of Cochin people is to visit temples in early mornings. Christians will not miss their Sunday masses and the Muslims their prayers on Fridays. People are religious, they are deeply proud of their religion, but would respect all regions. The people of Cochin are highly fashion conscious. Even though the traditional Kerala ware is very popular, western clothing has been slowly taking over. Naturally when their cousins are in Persian Gulf, halfway across the world in Europe, New Zealand, Australia, America, etc. dress transformation will be taking place in tune with the times.

Cochin in the good old days had many typing institutes. They also taught shorthand. Gopalakrishna master’s institute at New Road, Mallayas institute was upstairs of Dwaraka hotel while there was another Institute on the side of the hotel. There were institutes at Amaravathi, and other areas as well. After studying shorthand and typewriting, the boys armed with a SSLC/Pre-degree certificate in the sixtees used to leave for Bombay in search of a job which they would invariably get. Chembur, Matunga, Sion, Koliwada are Kerala bastions. Many of these youngsters have risen in their ranks and have retired as MDs of the Companies of which they joined as Typists/Stenographers.

Cochin bears the burnt of monsoons. South west monsoon with lighting and thunder used to lash the Kerala especially Cochin between June and September (also known as (‘Edavapathi Rains), as this place is situated on the windward side of the Western Ghats. During October-Dec (Thulavarsham) the northeast monsoon used to bring rains to Kerala as it lies on the leeward side of the Country. Average rainfall is around 274 Cms, spreading over 132 rainy days. Cochin typically is a Tropical Monsoon climate (According to Koppa Climate classification). The usual temperature hovers between 17 degrees Celicious and 35 degree Celicious. Cochinites spent their leisure time in strolling on the vast Fort Kochi beach. Fort Cochin was an English county, houses built in various European styles, and Portuguese, Dutch, English style houses can be seen here. Parade Maiden is a historic ground where many football and cricket tournaments used to be held. On one edge of the ground is the famous St Francis Church, where Vasco-da-Gama’s body was interned. There is a cenotaph announcing this. The wayside to the Beach is filled with Chinese fishing nets, which showed Cochin’s link with the Chineese, from early years of the Christian era. Dutch cemetery, the Mattancherry Bazar, the Coonen Cross in the heart of Mattancherri, Dutch Palace (built by the Portuguese), are historical relics of the Past which had played a prominent role in Indian History. But the history of the place is shrouded in darkness, as no body had come forward to write a chronicle. There were no English newspapers published from Kerala, at that time. The only paper was a weekly which was brought out by Mr John Mampilli. His office was situated opposite to St Mary’s Convent Anglo Indian School. Little later, he shifted to Ernakulam north. Indian Express started printing their Cochin edition in 1970 or so. The Hindu also brought out a facsimile edition from Vyttila. I wrote a Book, “Saga of Cochin” and Vestige of a Grand Past which was released by Hon’ble Shri M N Govindan Nair, the then Minsiter of Electricity in the Govtof Kerala. I and the publisher of the book had gone to the Guest House at Ernakulam to invite Shri A C George, then Dy minister of Foreign Trade, GoI to release the Book.

Cochin was merged with Pallurthy, Fort Cochin, Ernakulam, and Edapally, and the Corporation of Cochin was born. Ernakulam got the name Cochin, even though it is only a part of greater Cochin, with the mainland Cochin being our Cochin which had a chequered history of its own. When the Councilors gathered, it was the LDF which had majority in the Cochin Corporation. Ironically, even though Shri M M Lawrence, CPM leader and a good man was slated to win, when the votes were counted the Mayorship went to Shri A A Kochunni(who was known as Kochuni master). When the shell-shocked Congressmen ran helter and shelter to get a few garlands, they were not successful in so much as the entire garlands made at Ernakulam, and Cochin were booked in advance by the CPM. Shri L G Pai, a good friend of ours and who owned a Tutorial College at Cherlai became the Dy Mayor. We conducted elocution classes every Sunday in master’s tutorial college. Then there have been great Mayors like Shri A C Jose, who was the youngest Mayor but for Mr Subhash Chandra Bose, Mr A C Seshadri and the like. But the formation of Cochin Corporation saw the decline of the original Cochin- Mattancherry.

Those of us, who studied in the Maharajas College, were deemed to be Gentlemen and comparison with Gentlemen of Presidency College is not out of place. One person who comes to my instant memory is Prof N R Kunjikuttan, who was lecturer, professor of History, later Principal of Maharaja’s College. Though our relationship was on a spiritual plane, it developed to closeness. Kunjikuttan Sir as he was called was venerated by his students like A K Antony, India’s Defence Minister, Vayalar Ravi, many distinguished personalities, who were his students. He had brilliant memory and has authored many books. I used to take my scripts to him for correction, and after lot of argument about the accuracy of events, their dates, quotes, I used to get the articles back, which were published by many mainstream papers and periodicals. I also got his help, for getting around 40 write-ups on various places, personalities, events, history, etc. When I had taken a team of American businessmen to Trivandrum, I met him near the Padmanabhaswami temple. Thereafter, I have no news of Kunjukuttan Sir.

I had the misfortune to be the Secretary General of an association dealing with Rubber. I had to fight for the users, as a result bulk quantity was imported into India, at nil rates, yet under Open General licence. This resulted in the collapse of Rubber prices, even though, at a much later period, the Rubber prices stabilized. I atoned for it by getting benefits for the Coir and Coconut industry in the 21st century.

My friends, admirers, lecturers, teachers, have left their indelible marks in my life one or the other time. When I was about the begin the welcome address for a Foreign Exchange seminar at Chennai, a friend of mine who studied with me 20 years ago, waved his hand. I could not recollect him, but later intimate conversation resulted. Another friend of mine had become Chairman and Managing Director of a nationalized Bank. He recognized me immediately and spent some time with me, even though he had a tight schedule. A union minister who was my friend would always see me whenever I go to Delhi and request for a meeting without appointment. The list can go on. I can add on. But memory is like the ebb of the wave; it never stops. So also memory. Cochin or Kochi is one place which I visit with nostalgia. It brings back to me, the memorable past. The great past.

Distortions in the re-written South Indian History

The Kingdoms of South India do not get wide coverage in the Ancient Indian History, possibly because the Kings or potentates have not left any record of their reign or inscriptions. Even though Tamil was one of the oldest classical languages of India from the unknown date in history,the historical sagas carried by the authors of famous texts are not considered authentic. However, Kerala is as old as History. The Ramayana and Mahabharata, there are references to places in Kerala. Kerala princes and warriors are said to have partaken in the ‘Kurushekhtra War’. Vamana, one of the incarnations of Vishnu is said to have exiled the then emperor Maha Bali to pathala (Bhagavatham). Parasurama, the subsequent Avatara of Vishnu is said to have reclaimed Kerala from the Sea throwing his axe from the Oom Gokarna sea coast. All these testify that there has been Cheranad, along with Cholas and Pndyan Kingdoms in South India.
Perumchoth Udayan Cheralatan was the first of the Chera Kings about whom there is a scanty sketch in the Tamil literature. He is said to be a great warrior who partook in the kurukshetra War. He was succeded by Palyanai Selkeh Kuttavan who ruled from ‘Thiruvanchikulam on the broad Periyar, near the sounding ocean’. Kalankaikkanni Narmudic Cheral succeded Selkh Kuttavan. Cholas had by that time annexed some of the parts of the Chera Kingdom. Karikola Chola defeated the combined forces of Pandya and Chera forces in the famous battle of Venni. His successors were weak, and they were subdued by Cheran Senkuttavan. The great poets of the Sangam literature have ascribed many victories and he was credited with subjugating many victories. He won a great naval war (Pathittipattu 45, 46, 48 Agam 212), and got the title ‘Kadal Pirakottiya’. Muziris, which suffered from the depredations of buccaneers, was made a safe Port of Call.
Muziris (Kodungalloor or CRAGANORE) was reputed to be the ancient world's greatest trading centre in the East for such highly prized possessions as Pepper, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Ginger and other Spices. Pliny the elder describes Muziris as primum emporium Indiae. The Port was popular to the author of the Periplus of the Erythrean Sea who described it as being situated on River Pseudostomus (Greek for false mouth- a precise Malayalam translation of Periyar alimukom) A second century Papyrus from Egypt concerning the transshipment of goods originating in Muziris from the Red Sea to Alexandria attests the continued importance of the Port in the Indian Ocean after Pilany and Periplus. Pliny, the younger is said to have lamented the fact that trade with Muziris was draining the treasury of Rome. The trade flourished by ships riding on the monsoon winds from Africa and back to Arabia, from where the overland caravan took the prized items to the markets along the Mediterranean Ports. Kerala was known as fabled land of Spices and black Gold. It was during this time Europe was busy in exploration and Voyages to unknown lands. Route to India was a dream of most of the voyager. Many attempts were made, but most could reach only up to "Cape of Good hope" in Africa.
Historians like Dr Tomber of the British Museum attest that the flow of trade between Rome and Kerala lasted between the 1st century BC and 1st Century AD. However, there was growing evidence, according to her, that this trade continued much longer into the 6th and early 7th century AD, although not continually.
So well known was this Port town, a placed loved by the navigators, that the direct disciple of Jesus Christ, St Thomas came to Muziris, and the Christian religion took their roots here. The testimony to this is the St Marthoma Church (built in 52 AD). There has been a congregation of Buddhists to this place as well. Huan Tsang, Chinese traveler who has recounted the history of his travel in India, describes Muziris as a place where there were many Buddhists. The 24th Perumal Raja Varman (294-314 AD), the thirteeth Perumal Chandra Varman II (515-540 AD) became staunch Buddhists. In Kerala upto 550 AD Buddhism was highly prevalent here. Well known geographer Ptolemy (AD 95) had a map where Muziris was marked. Sri Kurumba Bhagavati temple of Kodungallur is said to have been built by Cheran Senkuttavan. Kodungalluramma and the fable relating to her have been depicted in Silapathikaram by Elangovan, who is said to be the brother of Cheran Senkuttavan (2 nd centuries AD Tamil classic). The Kannaki of Chilapathikaram is said to have burned the city of Madurai when the Pandyan King unknowingly killed her husband Kovalan, accusing him of having robbed the precious pearl studded bracelet. According to lore, Kannaki is Kodungalluramma. However, under Senkuttavan, there was peaceful co-existence between the conglomerations of all religious faiths in the remote period of History.
I would like to pause for a second, and look at the record achievements of South Indian rulers. However, when the entire Indian History was re-constrcuted by Western Scholars, they gave scant respect for Chola, Chera and Pandya Kingdoms. Pulakasi II stopped the exploits of Harsha Vardhan. Raja Raja Chola and Rajemdra were great monarchs. In the annals of the early centuries of Christian era, South Indian Ports excelled. Priceless treasures were brought by Phoenicians, Arabs, and Romans. The exploits of south Indian Kings lay concealed under the dust of centuries until comparatively recent times (!) Historians have often failed to appreciate the work and recognize the greatness of warriors and Kings of the South (Dravidians). The subjugation of the south by the invaders from the north is with them a normal occurrence, a fascinating theme, and a forgone conclusion. It was possible for people of South India to spread throughout India, colonize islands like Java, Bali and push commercial enterprise in the countries of the West, the story of their conquest of North India need not be branded as a figment of poetic fancy or a mere manifestation of parochial patriotism. If the expedition of Samudra Gupta could give the historic background to Kalidasa in describing the military triumphs of Raghu, the exploits by Chera Kings recorded in Pathithupattu and other Sangam Works of contemporary poets may also be legitimately regarded as reliable and true(Travancore Manual, Chap XIII,p 21). It may, perhaps, be contended that the desire for recognition and regard, might have induced the composers to burn their incense at the feet of the Kings and potentates and persuaded them to improvise fictions to make their panegyrics acceptable to their patrons. That is the fragility of poets of all ages and all Countries. But no historian has refused on that ground to indent for his facts on Bana’s Harscharita, Bilhana’s ‘Vikramankaradevacharitra’ or Kalhana’s Rajatharangani. V A Smith has frankly acknowledged that for the period of Indian History from 600 to 326 BC, dependence must be placed almost wholly upon tradition communicated through literary works. The remarks are no doubt applicable to the History of Sangam period in South Indian History.
Ancient Tamil works are invaluable pieces of information for reconstruction of history of those times. Silapathikaram is a notable work which gives inkling of the times. The Pathittipattu describes the exploits and valours of individual Chera Kings. The reputation of the Sangam works depended upon the stamp of approval placed on them by the great Madurai Academy composed by the most learned men of that time. The ‘Akkappural’ and ‘Pura Nanuru’ are also compositions of great value. But the accounts furnished by the Sangam works are often taken at a discount. So great is the inferiority that even Shri P T Srinivasa Iyer, who has done a lot of study in the South Indian History, would fain dismiss the expedition of Sen Kuttavan into the Gangetic Valley as a fable invented by ‘a Tamil poet ignorant of the geography of India’. In the light of the same arguments, it is feasible for a fantastic historian to state the great pilgrimage of Sri Sankara (Adi Sankara) from the remote Kaladi to the North as a fable invented by a fanciful poet of the South! If the Indo-Aryans from their Artic home and the Greeks under Alexander the Great knew geography enough to invade India through the difficult passes in the north-west, it may be reasonably presumed that a South Indian King should also be able to discover the route which led to the northern Regions.
Sangam Works quote the beautiful ships of Yevanas brought gold in great quantity to the Court of Muziris and went back laden with pepper. Spinning and weaving were common, carpentry, working in hides and skins were common. The land grew spices, especially pepper which was much sought out in the Western World. It abounded in Coconuts, sandlewood, akil and sugar cane. Elephants gave ivory, its mines yielded precious stones, and its seas produced pearls.
It was the consecration of a Bhagavati Temple at Kodungallur paved the way for Bhagavati workship in Kerala.
The Cheraman Jamal masjid was constructed in 629 AD and is the first Muslim mosque constructed in India. It had unique and queer architecture and a century year old lamp which show the close amenity between the various religions at Kodungallur. Kodungallur still enjoys religious amenity.
Today, Muziris stands in isolation, with big gated houses, with their occupants away in America, Emirates and other far countries. Kodungallur is a native place of the famous P Bhaskar who gave many songs including “Nallikerathindanattil annikku nadi edigandi mannundu” (In the land of Coconut, I have a small land), Prof M N Vijayan, Kamal, Cinema Director, Kodungallur Kunju Kuttan thampuran, an erudite Sanskrit Scholar, Bahadhur, late cine artist, etc.
Bibliography:

# Pliny’s Natural History
# Travancore Manual
# History of the Tamils from the earliest times to 600 AD- P T
Srinivasa Iyengar
# History of Kerala – A Sridhara Menon
# Trade in early India (Oxford University Press)
# Cochin Saga- Sir Robert Bristow
# History of Kerala- Wikipedia
# Vestige of the Grand Past & Saga of Cochin (A V Ramanathan)
# Viswa Vijnana Kosh (Ed: P T Bhaskara Panikker)
# Annual Reports of Coir Board
#Coir Export Statistical Output (Coir Board)(2007)
#Coconut Export Manual (CDB, Govt of India, 2010]