Kochi had a distinct past, has a marvellous present and glorious future. We have been Cochinites, from the early part of the 20th century, and three generations comprising of my grandfather, grandmother, my father, and myself, my brother and sisters formed a part of this chain, having been in Cochin for more than a century.
We were part of the mainland Kochi, which had the fortune to see a typical pan-Indian nature by the substantial presence of ethnic cosmopolitan culture, please do not mistake it with cosmopolitan Club at Anavathil where India’s greatest singer Mohammed Rafi, came and conducted a ‘ganamela’ to the enthrallment of the entire Cochinites. Gandhiji had visited this place; Smt Indira Gandhi visited the place atleast two times; Dr B Radhakrishna Rao, Governor, had come here a number of times. The Pais of Manipal, who gave life to Manipal as a centre of learning, and they are the pioneers in the privatization of Education, often visited Cochin. Sankaracharya of Singeri and Sankaracharya of Kanchipuram, used to visit this beautiful place. The plastered mouth Jain sanyasis and sanyasinis used to come; the Godwa Saraswat Mathawacharya Swamijis also visited the Thirumala Devaswom temple atleast twice in a year, there were regular visits by different pontiffs of Christiana and Islam faith. But the people of Cochin always welcomed them with warmth and made them feel Cochin was their world. Cochinites included Yesudas, Antony, Rani Chandra, and many drama artistes. V R Krishna Iyer used to visit the Star talkies along with his wife Smt Janaki Krishna Iyer to see the latest English movies screened there.
If you travel the lanes and bylanes of Cochin, you would accost Muslims, Christians, Menons, Nairs, Tamil Brahmins, Tulu Brahmins, Godwa Saraswaths, Mdhavachars, Bengalis, Maharashtrians, Buddhists, Jains, Gujaratis, Marwaris, Biharis, Bengalis, Andhraites, Kanareese, Punjabis, Parsis, people from UP, Anglo Indians, and the like. Cochin is a mini India. There was a prosperous Jewish community settlement here (Jew Town) you can also see that these people not only come here, they bring their family, their tradition and culture. The Gujarathis play the ‘garba’ dance watched by their Malayalee neighbours. Holi and Diwali are celebrated with gaiety, while Onam and Vishu are celebrated by people of all faiths and religions. Christmas, Easter, Eid ul-Fitr, Milad-e-sherif is celebrated with devotion by the communities. Cochin carnival is conducted at Fort Cochin annually in the last week of December of every year. The thalapalli at Pazhayannur Bhagavati temple and the ten-day festivities at the Thirumala Devaswom Temple at Cherali draw huge crowds from Cochin’s multi ethnic composition. . Festivals and festivities form a part of the routine of a Malayalee. The children look forward to these festivals with eager anxiety.
If you are an avid eater, you can taste the multi dimensional food that is served on plantain leaves with two curries, porridge, payasam, avizal, thoran, pachadi, pappad, banana chips, three types of pickles, sambar, rasam and curd, which would be sumptuous and part of the cuisine during festivals, marriages and other celebrations. There will be abundance of Coconut and spices, coconut oil used extensively in the fried preparations, as Kerala is the land of ‘Kera’ or ‘land of Coconut’. I had the opportunity to serve this industry as Export Consultant to the Coconut Development Board, which was set up exclusively to develop the Coconut industry. When it was declared as an Export Promotion Council, my services were sought, and I assisted them. I have authored the ‘Coconut Export Manual’ which is a composition directed at export formalities, procedures and documentation. Chinese and North Indian cuisines are also available. Fast Food Culture has taken off in a big way. Another unique wayside hotel in moving carts known as ‘thattukada’ also sells preparations for the wayside crowd. The parippuwada and tea are very famous, and a familiar eatable of the Kerala folk. In the early days, it is used to be eating parrippuwada, then drink tea and smoke a beedi, a trait of the Communist.
A unique feature of Cochin people is to visit temples in early mornings. Christians will not miss their Sunday masses and the Muslims their prayers on Fridays. People are religious, they are deeply proud of their religion, but would respect all regions. The people of Cochin are highly fashion conscious. Even though the traditional Kerala ware is very popular, western clothing has been slowly taking over. Naturally when their cousins are in Persian Gulf, halfway across the world in Europe, New Zealand, Australia, America, etc. dress transformation will be taking place in tune with the times.
Cochin in the good old days had many typing institutes. They also taught shorthand. Gopalakrishna master’s institute at New Road, Mallayas institute was upstairs of Dwaraka hotel while there was another Institute on the side of the hotel. There were institutes at Amaravathi, and other areas as well. After studying shorthand and typewriting, the boys armed with a SSLC/Pre-degree certificate in the sixtees used to leave for Bombay in search of a job which they would invariably get. Chembur, Matunga, Sion, Koliwada are Kerala bastions. Many of these youngsters have risen in their ranks and have retired as MDs of the Companies of which they joined as Typists/Stenographers.
Cochin bears the burnt of monsoons. South west monsoon with lighting and thunder used to lash the Kerala especially Cochin between June and September (also known as (‘Edavapathi Rains), as this place is situated on the windward side of the Western Ghats. During October-Dec (Thulavarsham) the northeast monsoon used to bring rains to Kerala as it lies on the leeward side of the Country. Average rainfall is around 274 Cms, spreading over 132 rainy days. Cochin typically is a Tropical Monsoon climate (According to Koppa Climate classification). The usual temperature hovers between 17 degrees Celicious and 35 degree Celicious. Cochinites spent their leisure time in strolling on the vast Fort Kochi beach. Fort Cochin was an English county, houses built in various European styles, and Portuguese, Dutch, English style houses can be seen here. Parade Maiden is a historic ground where many football and cricket tournaments used to be held. On one edge of the ground is the famous St Francis Church, where Vasco-da-Gama’s body was interned. There is a cenotaph announcing this. The wayside to the Beach is filled with Chinese fishing nets, which showed Cochin’s link with the Chineese, from early years of the Christian era. Dutch cemetery, the Mattancherry Bazar, the Coonen Cross in the heart of Mattancherri, Dutch Palace (built by the Portuguese), are historical relics of the Past which had played a prominent role in Indian History. But the history of the place is shrouded in darkness, as no body had come forward to write a chronicle. There were no English newspapers published from Kerala, at that time. The only paper was a weekly which was brought out by Mr John Mampilli. His office was situated opposite to St Mary’s Convent Anglo Indian School. Little later, he shifted to Ernakulam north. Indian Express started printing their Cochin edition in 1970 or so. The Hindu also brought out a facsimile edition from Vyttila. I wrote a Book, “Saga of Cochin” and Vestige of a Grand Past which was released by Hon’ble Shri M N Govindan Nair, the then Minsiter of Electricity in the Govtof Kerala. I and the publisher of the book had gone to the Guest House at Ernakulam to invite Shri A C George, then Dy minister of Foreign Trade, GoI to release the Book.
Cochin was merged with Pallurthy, Fort Cochin, Ernakulam, and Edapally, and the Corporation of Cochin was born. Ernakulam got the name Cochin, even though it is only a part of greater Cochin, with the mainland Cochin being our Cochin which had a chequered history of its own. When the Councilors gathered, it was the LDF which had majority in the Cochin Corporation. Ironically, even though Shri M M Lawrence, CPM leader and a good man was slated to win, when the votes were counted the Mayorship went to Shri A A Kochunni(who was known as Kochuni master). When the shell-shocked Congressmen ran helter and shelter to get a few garlands, they were not successful in so much as the entire garlands made at Ernakulam, and Cochin were booked in advance by the CPM. Shri L G Pai, a good friend of ours and who owned a Tutorial College at Cherlai became the Dy Mayor. We conducted elocution classes every Sunday in master’s tutorial college. Then there have been great Mayors like Shri A C Jose, who was the youngest Mayor but for Mr Subhash Chandra Bose, Mr A C Seshadri and the like. But the formation of Cochin Corporation saw the decline of the original Cochin- Mattancherry.
Those of us, who studied in the Maharajas College, were deemed to be Gentlemen and comparison with Gentlemen of Presidency College is not out of place. One person who comes to my instant memory is Prof N R Kunjikuttan, who was lecturer, professor of History, later Principal of Maharaja’s College. Though our relationship was on a spiritual plane, it developed to closeness. Kunjikuttan Sir as he was called was venerated by his students like A K Antony, India’s Defence Minister, Vayalar Ravi, many distinguished personalities, who were his students. He had brilliant memory and has authored many books. I used to take my scripts to him for correction, and after lot of argument about the accuracy of events, their dates, quotes, I used to get the articles back, which were published by many mainstream papers and periodicals. I also got his help, for getting around 40 write-ups on various places, personalities, events, history, etc. When I had taken a team of American businessmen to Trivandrum, I met him near the Padmanabhaswami temple. Thereafter, I have no news of Kunjukuttan Sir.
I had the misfortune to be the Secretary General of an association dealing with Rubber. I had to fight for the users, as a result bulk quantity was imported into India, at nil rates, yet under Open General licence. This resulted in the collapse of Rubber prices, even though, at a much later period, the Rubber prices stabilized. I atoned for it by getting benefits for the Coir and Coconut industry in the 21st century.
My friends, admirers, lecturers, teachers, have left their indelible marks in my life one or the other time. When I was about the begin the welcome address for a Foreign Exchange seminar at Chennai, a friend of mine who studied with me 20 years ago, waved his hand. I could not recollect him, but later intimate conversation resulted. Another friend of mine had become Chairman and Managing Director of a nationalized Bank. He recognized me immediately and spent some time with me, even though he had a tight schedule. A union minister who was my friend would always see me whenever I go to Delhi and request for a meeting without appointment. The list can go on. I can add on. But memory is like the ebb of the wave; it never stops. So also memory. Cochin or Kochi is one place which I visit with nostalgia. It brings back to me, the memorable past. The great past.
We were part of the mainland Kochi, which had the fortune to see a typical pan-Indian nature by the substantial presence of ethnic cosmopolitan culture, please do not mistake it with cosmopolitan Club at Anavathil where India’s greatest singer Mohammed Rafi, came and conducted a ‘ganamela’ to the enthrallment of the entire Cochinites. Gandhiji had visited this place; Smt Indira Gandhi visited the place atleast two times; Dr B Radhakrishna Rao, Governor, had come here a number of times. The Pais of Manipal, who gave life to Manipal as a centre of learning, and they are the pioneers in the privatization of Education, often visited Cochin. Sankaracharya of Singeri and Sankaracharya of Kanchipuram, used to visit this beautiful place. The plastered mouth Jain sanyasis and sanyasinis used to come; the Godwa Saraswat Mathawacharya Swamijis also visited the Thirumala Devaswom temple atleast twice in a year, there were regular visits by different pontiffs of Christiana and Islam faith. But the people of Cochin always welcomed them with warmth and made them feel Cochin was their world. Cochinites included Yesudas, Antony, Rani Chandra, and many drama artistes. V R Krishna Iyer used to visit the Star talkies along with his wife Smt Janaki Krishna Iyer to see the latest English movies screened there.
If you travel the lanes and bylanes of Cochin, you would accost Muslims, Christians, Menons, Nairs, Tamil Brahmins, Tulu Brahmins, Godwa Saraswaths, Mdhavachars, Bengalis, Maharashtrians, Buddhists, Jains, Gujaratis, Marwaris, Biharis, Bengalis, Andhraites, Kanareese, Punjabis, Parsis, people from UP, Anglo Indians, and the like. Cochin is a mini India. There was a prosperous Jewish community settlement here (Jew Town) you can also see that these people not only come here, they bring their family, their tradition and culture. The Gujarathis play the ‘garba’ dance watched by their Malayalee neighbours. Holi and Diwali are celebrated with gaiety, while Onam and Vishu are celebrated by people of all faiths and religions. Christmas, Easter, Eid ul-Fitr, Milad-e-sherif is celebrated with devotion by the communities. Cochin carnival is conducted at Fort Cochin annually in the last week of December of every year. The thalapalli at Pazhayannur Bhagavati temple and the ten-day festivities at the Thirumala Devaswom Temple at Cherali draw huge crowds from Cochin’s multi ethnic composition. . Festivals and festivities form a part of the routine of a Malayalee. The children look forward to these festivals with eager anxiety.
If you are an avid eater, you can taste the multi dimensional food that is served on plantain leaves with two curries, porridge, payasam, avizal, thoran, pachadi, pappad, banana chips, three types of pickles, sambar, rasam and curd, which would be sumptuous and part of the cuisine during festivals, marriages and other celebrations. There will be abundance of Coconut and spices, coconut oil used extensively in the fried preparations, as Kerala is the land of ‘Kera’ or ‘land of Coconut’. I had the opportunity to serve this industry as Export Consultant to the Coconut Development Board, which was set up exclusively to develop the Coconut industry. When it was declared as an Export Promotion Council, my services were sought, and I assisted them. I have authored the ‘Coconut Export Manual’ which is a composition directed at export formalities, procedures and documentation. Chinese and North Indian cuisines are also available. Fast Food Culture has taken off in a big way. Another unique wayside hotel in moving carts known as ‘thattukada’ also sells preparations for the wayside crowd. The parippuwada and tea are very famous, and a familiar eatable of the Kerala folk. In the early days, it is used to be eating parrippuwada, then drink tea and smoke a beedi, a trait of the Communist.
A unique feature of Cochin people is to visit temples in early mornings. Christians will not miss their Sunday masses and the Muslims their prayers on Fridays. People are religious, they are deeply proud of their religion, but would respect all regions. The people of Cochin are highly fashion conscious. Even though the traditional Kerala ware is very popular, western clothing has been slowly taking over. Naturally when their cousins are in Persian Gulf, halfway across the world in Europe, New Zealand, Australia, America, etc. dress transformation will be taking place in tune with the times.
Cochin in the good old days had many typing institutes. They also taught shorthand. Gopalakrishna master’s institute at New Road, Mallayas institute was upstairs of Dwaraka hotel while there was another Institute on the side of the hotel. There were institutes at Amaravathi, and other areas as well. After studying shorthand and typewriting, the boys armed with a SSLC/Pre-degree certificate in the sixtees used to leave for Bombay in search of a job which they would invariably get. Chembur, Matunga, Sion, Koliwada are Kerala bastions. Many of these youngsters have risen in their ranks and have retired as MDs of the Companies of which they joined as Typists/Stenographers.
Cochin bears the burnt of monsoons. South west monsoon with lighting and thunder used to lash the Kerala especially Cochin between June and September (also known as (‘Edavapathi Rains), as this place is situated on the windward side of the Western Ghats. During October-Dec (Thulavarsham) the northeast monsoon used to bring rains to Kerala as it lies on the leeward side of the Country. Average rainfall is around 274 Cms, spreading over 132 rainy days. Cochin typically is a Tropical Monsoon climate (According to Koppa Climate classification). The usual temperature hovers between 17 degrees Celicious and 35 degree Celicious. Cochinites spent their leisure time in strolling on the vast Fort Kochi beach. Fort Cochin was an English county, houses built in various European styles, and Portuguese, Dutch, English style houses can be seen here. Parade Maiden is a historic ground where many football and cricket tournaments used to be held. On one edge of the ground is the famous St Francis Church, where Vasco-da-Gama’s body was interned. There is a cenotaph announcing this. The wayside to the Beach is filled with Chinese fishing nets, which showed Cochin’s link with the Chineese, from early years of the Christian era. Dutch cemetery, the Mattancherry Bazar, the Coonen Cross in the heart of Mattancherri, Dutch Palace (built by the Portuguese), are historical relics of the Past which had played a prominent role in Indian History. But the history of the place is shrouded in darkness, as no body had come forward to write a chronicle. There were no English newspapers published from Kerala, at that time. The only paper was a weekly which was brought out by Mr John Mampilli. His office was situated opposite to St Mary’s Convent Anglo Indian School. Little later, he shifted to Ernakulam north. Indian Express started printing their Cochin edition in 1970 or so. The Hindu also brought out a facsimile edition from Vyttila. I wrote a Book, “Saga of Cochin” and Vestige of a Grand Past which was released by Hon’ble Shri M N Govindan Nair, the then Minsiter of Electricity in the Govtof Kerala. I and the publisher of the book had gone to the Guest House at Ernakulam to invite Shri A C George, then Dy minister of Foreign Trade, GoI to release the Book.
Cochin was merged with Pallurthy, Fort Cochin, Ernakulam, and Edapally, and the Corporation of Cochin was born. Ernakulam got the name Cochin, even though it is only a part of greater Cochin, with the mainland Cochin being our Cochin which had a chequered history of its own. When the Councilors gathered, it was the LDF which had majority in the Cochin Corporation. Ironically, even though Shri M M Lawrence, CPM leader and a good man was slated to win, when the votes were counted the Mayorship went to Shri A A Kochunni(who was known as Kochuni master). When the shell-shocked Congressmen ran helter and shelter to get a few garlands, they were not successful in so much as the entire garlands made at Ernakulam, and Cochin were booked in advance by the CPM. Shri L G Pai, a good friend of ours and who owned a Tutorial College at Cherlai became the Dy Mayor. We conducted elocution classes every Sunday in master’s tutorial college. Then there have been great Mayors like Shri A C Jose, who was the youngest Mayor but for Mr Subhash Chandra Bose, Mr A C Seshadri and the like. But the formation of Cochin Corporation saw the decline of the original Cochin- Mattancherry.
Those of us, who studied in the Maharajas College, were deemed to be Gentlemen and comparison with Gentlemen of Presidency College is not out of place. One person who comes to my instant memory is Prof N R Kunjikuttan, who was lecturer, professor of History, later Principal of Maharaja’s College. Though our relationship was on a spiritual plane, it developed to closeness. Kunjikuttan Sir as he was called was venerated by his students like A K Antony, India’s Defence Minister, Vayalar Ravi, many distinguished personalities, who were his students. He had brilliant memory and has authored many books. I used to take my scripts to him for correction, and after lot of argument about the accuracy of events, their dates, quotes, I used to get the articles back, which were published by many mainstream papers and periodicals. I also got his help, for getting around 40 write-ups on various places, personalities, events, history, etc. When I had taken a team of American businessmen to Trivandrum, I met him near the Padmanabhaswami temple. Thereafter, I have no news of Kunjukuttan Sir.
I had the misfortune to be the Secretary General of an association dealing with Rubber. I had to fight for the users, as a result bulk quantity was imported into India, at nil rates, yet under Open General licence. This resulted in the collapse of Rubber prices, even though, at a much later period, the Rubber prices stabilized. I atoned for it by getting benefits for the Coir and Coconut industry in the 21st century.
My friends, admirers, lecturers, teachers, have left their indelible marks in my life one or the other time. When I was about the begin the welcome address for a Foreign Exchange seminar at Chennai, a friend of mine who studied with me 20 years ago, waved his hand. I could not recollect him, but later intimate conversation resulted. Another friend of mine had become Chairman and Managing Director of a nationalized Bank. He recognized me immediately and spent some time with me, even though he had a tight schedule. A union minister who was my friend would always see me whenever I go to Delhi and request for a meeting without appointment. The list can go on. I can add on. But memory is like the ebb of the wave; it never stops. So also memory. Cochin or Kochi is one place which I visit with nostalgia. It brings back to me, the memorable past. The great past.
prof premraj pushpakaran writes -- 2017 marks the 50th year of Kochi Municipal Corporation!!!
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